Le Bateau Ivre
230 East 51st St. (Second Ave.), Manhattan
We were afraid our positive memory of Le Bateau Ivre was skewed by delusion, as memories often are. But when a Bartender Says, we know it's time for a revisit.
The food at Ze Drunken Boat is pretty good (smoked duck breast and confit gizzards enliven any salad) and the wine list is great (from Alsace to the Rhone region), especially considering there are hundreds available by-the-glass. That's the reason to come here (to drink French wine), and they'll give you a taste of any open bottle to confirm it's what you want. Excellent. Plus, the small bar and the dining room are always full of Age Appropriates, said our waitress, surveying the room as we did, and nodding. See you back there soon.

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