Momofuku, East Village

Tuesday, 8pm

Momofuku Noodle Bar
171 First Ave. (11th St.), Manhattan

Was it really only 5-6 years ago when Momofuku was down the street, on the corner of 10th, now home to Tarallucci E Vino (163 First Ave.)? And what was the name of that Italian place on 10th? The chef with the red head who made the fabulous lasagne with the bechamel? Miss Williamburg Porta Via, because they operated out of that diner in B'Burg. Right. He went to La Vineria (737 Ninth Ave.)? You though we'd be talking ramen but we're talking pasta?

What do you want us to say here? We never know whether to feel annoyed or sympathetic when a hostess willfully ignores new arrivals. Especially when that hostess is wearing a flannel shirt. Why are people doing that? Tony says it's, perhaps, because they're being ironic.

Anyway, you have to be impressed by places that print money, but that doesn't mean you'll enjoy the experience. Most AA's we know don't need to shout at one another while eating (music loud enough to give you a heart attack, and rush you out, do doubt part of the strategery, which we truly do appreciate). And most AA's we know don't need anyone standing over them or bumping into them while they eat (the old space was better for keeping non-eaters outside). But it's hard to resist those peking-ducky pork buns, and out of town guests like to experience what they fear they're missing, so Momofuku stays in the larger restaurant rotation. We're deeming it AABM because the crowd is mixed ages. Weekdays more tolerable than weekends for AA's who know this ain't quite worth a long wait.

Pre-dinner moment: Two AA males joke with Sara that she should stand in for their third person so they all can sit sooner. One of them isn't joking, but she can't discern who is wingman. Everyone's looking for rings. We're so moral, and flannel free.

WSJ.com story: Pass The Salt...And A Megaphone